4 Myths About Driving in the Snow

I know a lot about driving in the snow.  You may even call it an extra curricular activity of mine.  I drive on frozen lakes for fun and I follow tire technology with the same enthusiasm some people follow the NFL Draft.

Living in Colorado, I often hear people talking about driving in the snow (or their reluctance to do so), and I want to set the record straight on a few things.

Here are 4 common misconceptions about driving in the snow:

Myth 1: You need an SUV or 4-wheel drive to get around

For those of us that live along the front range of Colorado, we're no strangers to snow, but unless you regularly travel through more than half a foot of snow on unpaved roads (back-country skiing anyone?), almost all modern cars are acceptable for driving year-round.

As of November 1, 2011 all new cars in the US have mandatory stability control, which means that your car can help keep you on the road. So even if you are regularly traveling to the mountains in the winter, if you have a sedan with good tires you should be able to get around without issue.  Which brings me to my next point.

Myth 2: You need studded snow tires in winter

Let's clear this one up quickly - you don't! This is a hold-over from the days when rubber technology wasn't very advanced and the studs could help grip better in the ice and snow.  Studs are primarily helpful if you are driving on ice, which is not very common if you live in Colorado. These days, studs are mainly responsible for tearing up city streets and noise pollution.  Also, they handle very poorly on dry days.

This isn't to say that tires play no part in keeping you safe during the winter months.

Myth 3: Big, chunky, off-road tires are best for snow

Off-road tires are great, but not in the snow. They are great at riding on rough trails and in the mud. Good tires for the snow will have some things you can see and some things you can't. For example, many all-season and snow tires made today have additives to the rubber like silica to help keep the rubber soft in freezing temperatures. Also, the shape of the tread is very important in helping you stop, go and turn when the roads are dicey.

Big, chunky tires don't work well in the snow because they tend to ride on top of the snow instead of pushing down to the road - making for a slippery commute. Instead, opt for tires narrower tires that have a multi-varied tread pattern.

In my opinion, the best winter tires are found at tirerack.com. They do a great job of helping you select the right tires for your car. And they will ship to you (or to your mechanic's shop).

Myth 4: I can drive faster in the snow if I have all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive

All-wheel drive or four-wheel drive helps with just one thing, helping you accelerate. It doesn't help you stop faster, turn more smoothly or have more control while you are driving your car. You're just as likely to slide off the road in your big SUV than in a front-wheel drive car if you are driving too fast for the conditions. The best bet is to use common sense and always drive with care, even if you've been driving in the snow all your life.

Stay safe out there!

Cars That Hold Their Value

The Honda and Toyota hold better value than the Dodge

As a continuation of my previous blog post: When Is the Best Time to Sell Your Car?, I want to talk a little bit more about how you can put yourself in the best position to get the most out of your car when it comes time to sell it.

Like a home in a good neighborhood, versus a home in a bad part of town - a good investment up front pays off later.

Buy the Right Car

Not all car makes are created equal. Let's look at this example:

Two people buy cars. One buys a Dodge, one buys a Toyota.

The difference in price on the cars? Maybe 5% (the Dodge costing less).

5 years down the road?

The Dodge is worth 30% less than the Toyota.

Which car would you rather own when it comes time to sell?

Take the Long View

This is just one example of cars that seem similar up front, holding on to their value much differently in the used car market. I'm not saying everyone should drive a Toyota, but it's important to look at these factors when considering buying your next car.

How do you know which cars will hold their value and which ones don't? Well this is the tricky part, as there are  many factors to consider, such as:

• What model is the car?
• When will this model be replaced with a new model? 
• Which trim level of the vehicle holds its value best? 
• What kind of cars are directly competing for the market of the car you own?
• Are you buying at the beginning or end of the model cycle?
• How long do you plan to keep your car? 
• How many miles do you drive?
•  Where do you live?

While these questions may make your head spin, a bit of homework up front can mean a big payoff when it comes time to sell your car down the road.

As a car broker, I do this legwork on your behalf and am happy to help you take all these factors into consideration when making your next car purchase.  I work with trade-ins every day and stay up-to-date with both the used and new car markets and am happy to do the nerdy work so you don't have to.

The Best Time to Sell Your Car

A car is an asset. It literally pays to think of it that way. Let me explain how.

Contrary to popular belief, it often is a better use of your money to sell your car at the right time rather than drive it until it's dead. Yes cars depreciate, but there are better times in a car's life to sell.

I always tell my clients, that while cars depreciate, they don't depreciate at a regular pace. Check out my handy dandy chart below:

A Warranty Has Value
New cars come with a warranty from the manufacturer, usually for 36,000 miles. This warranty gives peace of mind that is worth something to the next buyer of your car. So, if for some reason you do have to get rid of your car early in its life (or are looking for a change), it's best to sell it before the warranty expires. This way you can get maximum value for your car.

Banks Get Picky
Most people require a loan of some sort to buy a car. Banks prefer to give loans on newer cars. Specifically, those with fewer than 100,000 miles. You may find it harder to sell your car once it's past the 100k marker, since your potential car buyer pool will have shrunk to those who don't need bank financing.

I find too many people come to me with a car that has just over 100,000 miles - this hurts them because the car is worth noticeably less thank it would have been if they had just come in six months sooner. While you can still get money for your car, if you are debating selling your car - do it sooner rather than later.

One Last Reason to Part Ways Before 100k
While it's nice to go without a car payment (trust me, I sympathize) there comes a point when car maintenance can be as (if not more) expensive as a monthly car payment. After a certain point, you are putting more money into your car than it has value - did you ever see that movie "Money Pit"? What's worse is that those expenses come irregularly and the numbers dollar signs can get pretty big when they happen.

In my experience, I've seen it's a less expensive proposition to sell your car while it still has value to others. If you hold on until it's last dying spurt, then you have to finance your new car from scratch instead of applying trade-in dollars toward a new down-payment.

Things to Know Before You Test Drive a Car

Forget the Numbers For Now (The Touchy-Feely Part of Car Buying)

There is a perfect car for everyone

While test driving the car

• Make sure to sit down in the driver's seat and get everything comfortable the way you are used to driving.
• If you don't immediately feel comfortable driving the car - that's okay and normal. Every car feels different from behind the wheel, so don't be scared off if this car feels different than your old one.
• New cars come with more and more buttons and electronics. Don't worry about not understanding them immediately.
• Your primary goal should be to focus on the driving mechanics of the car and if it will meet your needs.
• A lot of people fail to sit in anything but the driver's seat. Make sure to set the driver's seat the way you would sit in it and then move around the car and try out the other seats to make sure they are comfortable. If you will be the only one that is ever in the car, then don't worry about it.

Now, where to test drive?

• A good test drive shouldn't take any longer than ten minutes but you're oging to want to make sure you drive it on a different kinds of roads at different speeds (if you always drive on the highway, make sure to get up to highway speeds).
• A car that may be just fine at low speeds may be too loud for you (or too slow) on the highway.
• Don't get caught up in the color or the vehicle if it's not your favorite. Your first job is to determine if you even want to consider the car. It's like not buying a house because the bedrooms are painted the wrong color.

After the test drive

At the end of the test drive, now is a good time to delve a little bit more into the features of the car.

• How does the radio or the navigation work?
• What do you think about the power doors, backup cameras or the way the accessories feel in your hand?
• Don't worry if things seem to beep more than you think they should - a good auto broker will show you how to customize that later.

If you have lined up a test drive with someone like me, you will have the benefit of driving different makes and models back-to-back so they memory of each test drive is fresh in your mind. If you are elsewhere, don't hesitate to return and ask for another test drive. After all, you are are spending your hard-earned money and it should be the dealer's job to make sure you are comfortable with your purchase.